by Jeannette LaFors
We’ve been in Santiago for just over three weeks, and lots of things have helped me to get oriented in our new environment. But thus far two anchoring experiences have shed light on profound influences on the Chilean psyche for me.
The Andes: The Andes mountain range – La Cordillera – is a stunning topographical feature of the Chilean landscape, and no one in Chile lives very far from from it. There are over 35 peaks above 6000 meters (~19,700 feet) in Chile, and there have been more than ten eruptions in the past 20 years among the 123 active volcanoes. You can’t escape the fact that Chile holds a significant share of real estate on the Ring of Fire.
The four of us ventured 70km out of the city on our second weekend in Santiago to enjoy the fresh air of the mountains. We headed southeast toward San Jose de Maipo and the valley where the River Maipo flows through, and drove up a super curvy road to Lagunillas, a modest ski center with a rustic feel.
Adela and I returned to the Cajón de Maipo area with a guide a week later to further explore the mountains for a two-day trekking/snow-shoeing trip. We stayed one night at the welcoming Refugio Lo Valdez, built in 1932 by the Club Alemán Andino. On our first day of hiking we approached Cerro San Jose – a volcano 5856 meters above sea level and dormant since 1960. The sky was a brilliant and blazing blue, and our only company was a little bird who ecstatically joined us for lunch.
On our second day we trekked in the Chilean national park known as Monumento Natural El Morado where we enjoyed more spectacular views featuring El Morado (4647 meters) and the San Francisco glacier. Our fabulous guide, Miguel Infante Garcia, pointed out the amazing geographic features, helped us learn to read snow patterns, shared his maté with us, and even accompanied Adela on his small electric piano while she sang Adele’s “Someone Like You.”
So many themes emerged from this experience. One, it underscored how much many Chileans take pride in their county’s natural beauty and strive to preserve it. At the same time, they are working at odds with others who are not reliable stewards of the land. I couldn’t help feeling so infinitesimally small when I looked out among the majestic peaks; but I also considered what an enormous impact we humans have had on the land as I observed truckload after truckload leave the area with mined resources.
La Memoria: This week we went as a family to the Museo de La Memoria y Los Derechos Humanos, the national museum dedicated to documenting the systematic human rights violations in Chile between 1973 and 1990 and to preventing future violations. When Matt and I visited Santiago 15 years ago, we visited Villa Grimandi, a property taken over by Pinochet’s secret police to become a detention center where nearly 5,000 political prisoners (including Chile’s current president Michelle Bachelet) were tortured and over 200 were killed. It is now a peace park and memorial.
The museum brings to light a terrifying time in Chile’s history. And as much as it is about the darkness of those times, it is also about the people who stood up to the injustices and eventually returned Chile to democratic rule. To Matt’s and my surprise, however, the museum was virtually silent on the U.S. role in supporting the coup. Despite that critique, it was, as expected, an unforgettable experience – una experiencia inolvidable – and a critical reminder that most Chileans we meet have been directly impacted by these historical events in one way or another.
The juxtaposition of these two experiences causes me reflect that though our time on this earth is but a blip; it is a blip where we humans wield both massive destructive and (re)constructive power. It is clear that we must instill in present and future generations a compelling and enduring value of protecting the dignity and rights of our fellow human beings while we also safeguard the earth from damaging and unsustainable practices. And while I feel I have gained some insights into the Chilean national experience by meditating on lessons learned from both the Andes and La Memoria, I know that I have much to learn.
Matt’s thoughts on understanding Chile: I think a lot about dualities here. Tradition and modernity. Pride and modesty. Haves and have-nots. Choking smog and stunning natural beauty. A president who was a prisoner.
Adela’s thoughts on understanding Chile: One thing I noticed about Chile is how many abused and stray dogs there are. I always feel sorry for them and wonder if they will ever find a home. I am glad I see so many people that have donated doggie vests and doggie sweaters. I just hope one day they will find a home.
Dylan’s thoughts on understanding Chile: Chileans are very passionate people. And after I went to a soccer game, it really sank in. The fans cheered on their team even when they were losing. It was like the fans’ chanting picked the players up and gave them energy.